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Najat Kanaache in The New York Times

Najat Kanaache In The New York Times

Nur” means light in Arabic, and sharing the radiance of her very personal modern Moroccan cooking is the mission of the chef Najat Kaanache at her intimate new restaurant in the medina. Ms. Kaanache, who grew up in the Spanish Basque Country, discovered her love of cooking while working at a seafood restaurant in Rotterdam, then did stints at a series of modern haute-cuisine restaurants, including Alinea, the French Laundry, El Bulli and Noma. Now she is applying the avant-garde techniques she learned abroad to the cuisine of her ancestors. Her tasting menus change often, but run to dishes like a souk vegetable “menagerie” — a composition of pickled, roasted and raw vegetables — and roasted poultry with Moroccan mole, candied poultry stock and caramelized raisins. Three-course menu is 350 dirhams; five-course menu, 550 dirhams; eight-course tasting menu, 700 dirhams.

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